Mahón and Port Vendres


Mahón or Maó as its known in the local dialect, is the largest city and port of the sec­ond largest island (Minorca) of the Balearic Islands which are part of Spain. It is the sec­ond deep­est nat­ural har­bor in the world at 5km long and 900m wide, with very clear water.

The Carthagini­ans occu­pied the island in 205 BC and named the port after Mago Barca, the brother of Han­ni­bal. In the mid­dle ages Mahon was occu­pied by the Moors. In 1287 it cap­tured by Alfonso III of Aragon who estab­lished the King­dom of Majorca, a vas­sal state to the king­dom of Aragon. In 1707 the British took the island from the Span­ish and kept it until the Napoleonic Wars in the 18th cen­tury when it went back to Spain.

Many peo­ple believe that the city of Mahon is the birth place of may­on­naise, after the french defeated the British who were inhab­it­ing the port. The sauce was orig­i­nally known as “salsa mahonesa” in Span­ish and “maonesa” in Cata­lan (as it is still known in Menorca), later becom­ing may­on­naise as it was pop­u­lar­ized by the French. As well, a tra­di­tional cheese is still made on the island (for­matge de Maó) and is named after the city.

In the above map, Minorca is the island fur­thest to the right.

Our arrival into port was won­der­fully quiet and serene. We arrived at the island early in the morn­ing and started the long gen­tle glide towards the city, mov­ing from the rougher waves of the Mediter­ranean into the pro­tected and smooth waters of the harbour.

 

 

We softly glided past the still-sleeping rows of houses built along the banks includ­ing one built for pri­vacy in the har­bour itself. (Appar­ently it is known locally as “lit­tle Venice” and is some­times rented by Richard Branson)

 

 

After we docked we went on shore to wan­der around the Port of Mahon for a while. Also docked on the quay near our boat was a Span­ish galleon that was attract­ing the locals. We checked it out and took some pic­tures before sign­ing up for a cata­ma­ran ride and local his­tory tour of the har­bour and the town along its shores.

Return­ing to the port, we walked around the old town built majes­ti­cally on a cliff as a pro­tec­tive and defen­sive solu­tion to all the invad­ing armies.

As always it was soon time to leave and set sail for Port-Vendres (France)

Port-Vendres is a typ­i­cal Mediter­ranean fish­ing port, sit­u­ated near the Span­ish bor­der on the Cote Ver­meille in south west France. Port-Vendres is renowned for its numer­ous fish and sea food restau­rants and is one of the few deep-water ports in this part of the French Mediter­ranean coast. It takes freighters and cruise ships, as well as large and small fish­ing boats.

We were feel­ing tired and needed more of a down day, so we just wan­dered around the town look­ing at the local sights and tak­ing pictures.

We found this fun pile of old can­nons — the sign says that this is a trans­fer areas for the paulines pro­tected habi­tat and that any explo­sives should be kept in this zone. Dis­charge of explo­sives is for­bid­den. Brian found that sign and old canons together, really funny.

 

When we left port, the weather was start­ing to get a bit more intense for the first time in the cruise. The waves were get­ting choppy and there was a wind com­ing across the bay of lions. The boat had a bit of a roll but noth­ing too over the top or dif­fi­cult to deal with. Both of us found it quite fun to feel the boat roll and sway.

 

Cannes and Sanary-sur-Mer

A quick note, if you are read­ing this on our blog and not in an email; if you click e pic­ture they get big and full resolution

The first expo­sure to France was land­ing at Cannes. It was hot, extremely muggy, full of peo­ple prepar­ing for the upcom­ing Cannes film fes­ti­val. Tourists all over the place, and the locals seemed annoyed at them already. In the fist pic­ture you can see the many tents along the harbour-front ready for the red carpet.

We walked around town, Strolling through the old parts of town and through the mar­ket streets tak­ing some pic­tures and hav­ing the locals gen­er­ally con­fused by a keen inter­est in to their cul­ture. (Brian: I saw some baguettes lean­ing up against a door­way and thought it would make a fun pic­ture. As I was tak­ing the shot, a local walked by and mut­tered under her breath, “c’est seule­ment du pain, Mon­sieur” mean­ing “it’s only bread, sir”).

We did our best to hide in the shade, and wan­dered back to the boat in the after­noon to get away from the crazi­ness of the film fes­ti­val set-up.

Brandi sched­uled a full-body mas­sage on the boat and and Brian had a nap. As the boat was prepar­ing to leave the dock, a sud­den cloud burst rolled through the port made for some very inter­est­ing and fun cloud photos.

Sanary-sur-Mer is said to be the sun­ni­est place in France. It is sur­rounded by wooded hills that pro­tect the town, bay and fine sand beaches from the strong mis­tral wind. We signed up for an excur­sion to Aix-en-Provence (Aix pro­nounced Ex) and boarded a bus tour where we were dri­ven to town about an hour away upon arriv­ing we were led on a guided tour of the old town.

With sun-dappled squares, lux­u­ri­ant foun­tains, and Paul Cézanne’s hal­lowed stu­dio, this cap­ti­vat­ing uni­ver­sity town is con­sid­ered the main hub of Provence and the most cul­tural town in the region.

 

After the tour we had some free time to explore Aix-en-Provenance and we quickly found a cafė for our first expe­ri­ence of the French cafė lifestyle. In a word, amaz­ing! In the back­ground of the pic­ture below, is the old­est con­tin­u­ally oper­at­ing cafė in France.

We returned to Sanary-sur-Mer and wan­dered around the main harbor-front find­ing nat­u­rally grow­ing birds of par­adise flow­ers grow­ing all around. Even­tu­ally we returned to the ship for din­ner and drinks.

 

Portoferraio and Porto Venere

The two Ital­ian ports on our trip are the two lit­tle fish­ing towns of Porto­fer­raio and Porto Venere. The fact that they are both small, Ital­ian and based around the fish­ing indus­try is where the sim­i­lar­i­ties end, the two towns are quite dif­fer­ent in feel and energy.

Porto­fer­raio is a town in the ital­ian province of Livorno, on the edge of the epony­mous har­bor of the island of Elba and is the island’s largest city. Because of its ter­rain, many of its build­ings are sit­u­ated on the slopes of a tiny hill sur­rounded on three sides by the sea. In June 1814 it was handed over to Napoleon Bona­parte, as the seat of his first exile until his escape in Feb­ru­ary of 1815. Per­son­ally, we are not sure why any­one would want to escape it.

We had signed up for a wine tast­ing tour on this day, how­ever Brandi was feel­ing quite ill from the sun and exhaus­tion the days before so unfor­tu­nately we were forced to back out of the excur­sion. It was sad that we missed it how­ever it gave us the oppor­tu­nity to wan­der around Porto­fer­raio, enjoy sights and sounds of the local open air mar­ket and buy a hat for Brandi to keep the sun off her head.

Feel­ing quite burned out, we returned to the ship for lunch and ordered up some a very tasty room ser­vice of a prop­erly made cae­sar salad with anchovies and a Margherita pizza. This gave us the energy to do one last jaunt through the town on the lit­tle tourist train with a recorded com­men­tary of the town’s history.

We felt well enough to dine in the restau­rant again, and like the night before, made it an early evening — hop­ing to get our energy back for the next day, at Porto Venere.

Porto Venere is a town located on the Lig­urian coast of Italy in the province of La Spezia and is com­prised of three vil­lages of Fez­zano, La Gra­zie, and Porto Venere. In 1997 these three vil­lages and the vil­lages of Cinque Terre were des­ig­nated by UNESCO as a world her­itage site. A 12th-century Castello is only part of the local mil­i­tary past as the islands of Pal­maria, Tino, and Tinetto were all for­ti­fied dur­ing WWII as part of the axis occu­pa­tion of the region.

The town reminded us so much of the towns in Cinque Terre (very near here) with its very warm and approach­able ambiance. The build­ings are also very sim­i­lar — like colour­ful toy blocks stacked in the hills. Here, the homes along the waters edge were orig­i­nally built as defense tow­ers — seven sto­ries tall, and only three meters wide, each. The streets are nar­row and wind­ing, built to be eas­ily bar­ri­caded — through­out the town, many walls and arch­ways still stand today, despite being built in 1161.

Inter­est­ing side note on this one: since being in this region in 2008, we’ve con­sid­ered this area to be prob­a­bly the most beau­ti­ful place we’ve been in the world. When we were speak­ing to the woman at the “hos­pi­tal­ity desk”, she asked where we were from and she said “Oh! I have been there! And Banff! I think you live in the most beau­ti­ful part of the world!”.

We walked through an arch­way in an old brick wall, to find a beau­ti­ful lit­tle clear-turquoise cove sur­rounded by huge stone cliffs. There were sun­bathers on the rocks, and some swim­mers in the crys­tal clear water. This is known as Byron’s Grotto, after the Eng­lish Poet who swam across the gulf from there to visit his friend Percy Bysse Shel­ley at San Terenzo. We could have stayed here all day, but knew we had more of this lovely lit­tle town to see. We wan­dered up to the thir­teenth cen­tury church of San Pietro, which stands on a rocky tongue of land over­look­ing the sea — it was built on the site of a Roman tem­ple to Venus. From there we climbed higher still, to Saint Ambrose’s Fortress (built in the six­teenth cen­tury) where the views were also breath­tak­ing. At one lit­tle van­tage point, Brandi turned to Brian and said, “wow, it couldn’t be any more per­fect!”, but just then to prove us wrong, a but­ter­fly flit­ted by.

Once we had taken in all the views we could, we headed back down into town for some focac­cia and gelato. After that, we took a stroll along the water’s edge and a rest on a shady bench (within earshot of a very tal­ented piano & flute duo). Our last lit­tle jaunt of the day was on a lit­tle boat tour of three nearby islands — Pal­maria, Tino, and Tinetto. They are cur­rently unin­hab­ited, but are impres­sive sites of rocky cliffs and ruins of mil­i­tary for­ti­fi­ca­tions. Brian very badly wanted to take his cam­era into said ruins.

By this time, it was late after­noon and so we headed back to Seabourn Leg­end via ten­der, as it was a lit­tle too big to get right up close to the dock here. Once back on board, we decided to take a dip in the hot tub on the very front tip of the ship. We had yet another per­fect meal in the restau­rant, and you guessed it — bed time right after. We don’t really under­stand — we are cer­tainly the youngest pas­sen­gers on board, but just can’t seem to stay awake for any nightlife!

 

15 Days remain

With only 15 days remain­ing before our vaca­tion (Inter­na­tional edi­tion) we are get­ting very excited for our trip!

The sense of excite­ment and pure panic are col­lid­ing and result­ing in a flurry of “how much work can I get done”, “how much stuff do we need to buy”, “what’s going on with these cats for a month”, “OMG, we don’t have a cat sit­ter any more!” and so on.

We will be gone for most of the month of May as we fly from Cal­gary to Rome, hop aboard a cruise for 10 days and then hack around France and make our way to Ams­ter­dam for the flight home.

For the cruise por­tion we will be aboard the Seabourn cruise lines, a lux­ury cruise with every­thing included (food, drinks, booze, etc). The only extras we need to cover is wifi and the shore excur­sions. The trip is a 10 day trip around the Mediter­ranean with 9 ports of call (two days in Barcelona).

Detail

The boat itself is quite small rel­a­tively speak­ing. With a max pas­sen­ger com­pli­ment of 208 and a crew of 168 there won’t be the insanely long lines at each meal. In fact with the extended time at each port (not leav­ing until 8-11pm isn’t unusual) we can eat at each port if we wish to change things up.

The Seabourn Legend cruise ship sets sail

After the cruise we dont have a spe­cific plan for where we will be going in France. We have a few ideas of places that we will want to visit. Eze, Mont Saint Michel, Paris etc. Obvi­ously we will need to see the Eif­fel tower, the lou­vre, and the arc de triomphe.
Our flight home is from Ams­ter­dam so the plan is to take the train there a few days early and add it to our list of travels.
So excit­ing, so much to do!